🔗 Share this article

When compiling a ranking of London’s finest dining spots, one might expect renowned high-end names. But, nestled near the top among these gastronomic heavyweights is a modest salonu situated in a outlying corner of north London.

A Surprise Accolade

The small Turkish spot, focusing in the specialties of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s south coast, has been declared the 4th best restaurant in the metropolis by a influential gastronomic guide. The accolade has made the family completely shocked.

“I am completely astonished,” remarks a proprietor, pointing to his parents’ hard graft that led to their modest place earning such a prominent ranking on a prestigious 99-strong list.

The Charm of Simplicity

This little venue, which started as a basic cafe before its change into a popular destination, has retained much of its original feel. It fits just over 20 people and, aside from the dazzling live cooking show, the setup remains essentially unchanged. “It is a small and stocky place,” comments the owner.

The Star Dish: Tantuni

In the end, it’s all down to the fare, and this eatery definitely succeeds. The eatery’s signature dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated joy. The meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to keep a succulent consistency.

It is then tossed into a large pan with spices and oil, which are mixed in bit by bit. When the meaty mixture bubbles up, freshly made lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is placed on top to absorb all the flavours. Thinly sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley go inside before the flavourful meat is rolled tightly inside.

It is typically enjoyed with a squeeze of lemon or some pickles. The outcome is a strong punch of taste, with soft hints of sumac, sharp onions and rich, paprika-red oil pulling it all together.

Other Than the Classic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is chopped and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. The prominent food critic called this dish “one of London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

For sweets, the eatery’s künefe is a delight. It is doused in a more modest amount of syrup than found elsewhere, giving it a deeper, nuttier and less sickly taste.

Surpassing the Stars

Interestingly, this modest restaurant has been placed higher than several illustrious three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself near the peak of the list, following other high-profile dining destinations.

Whereas two people could easily leave the restaurant stuffed for under £25, equivalent experiences at luxury establishments can start at many times that figure.

The Ethos of Warmth

The restaurant is also one of several Turkish restaurants featured and is found well beyond the city’s prime zones. “It’s not concerning luxury. London is an pricey city. There is an belief that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the finest service and best food but I don’t agree with that,” states the owner.

“I feel what is crucial is hospitality, a welcoming atmosphere and a place you can be yourself and feel calm.”

The sentiment is supported by the list’s compiler, who remarked that if he was in a position of authority, he would “insist to have every chef in London train at this spot as a masterclass, to teach them the traps of excess, and to demonstrate what is achievable if you do just one – or three – things to their utmost best”.

The Path of Perseverance

In contrast to many chefs heading kitchens in the list’s top ten, the head chef behind the food did not train at Michelin-starred restaurants. “I am truly proud of our restaurant and our mum,” concludes her son.

A lot of restaurants need years to establish themselves, but this one first started seven years ago. Its popularity is owing to relentless, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“Our mum would be extremely tired. She would source produce in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. All of it is made by hand; she would manage all of this. She is a solo parent and she balanced a social life but her friends would support her to help her. She was raising children and a house to look after as well. Each of these responsibilities made her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he says.

An Accomplishment for the People

The restaurant’s accolade is bound to echo outside its own doors. “In my opinion many people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” notes the owner, highlighting the greater meaning of this culinary triumph.